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The Cutaway Tuxedo

July 22, 2010

Recently browsing a collection of vintage sartorial illustrations, I was caught by an interesting and attractive ‘suggestion’; the scene (pictured above) is the deck of some vacation steamer or private yacht, two gentlemen in evening clothes are about to settle down to a pre or post-prandial beverage. One gentleman has already placed himself in a wicker armchair by a laid table, a hound at his side. The other stands in wait as the crew ready his chair; white shoed and trousered, he wears a double-breasted shawl collared dinner jacket with an attractive equestrian-style cutaway. It is an instantly arresting style; partly because it is unusual but also because it is an approach that worked so distractingly well.

Double breasted dinner jackets are appealing to me, but I was always concerned that they looked slightly too conventional – a black version of a day suit – to be something worthy of ‘evening dress.’ Secondly, the single breasted peaked or shawl lapels, though handsome with a waistcoat, are also rather ordinary and too similar to their daywear cousins in shape and style. This jacket design is fabulous; the proportions are perfect and it is completely idiosyncratic. The cutaway is the defining thing; were it merely a two button double-breasted shawl-collared evening jacket it would be simply unusual. As a cutaway jacket it is unique.

via The Cutaway Tuxedo.


From → fashion, Shop, style, trend

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