Skip to content

Live from Pitti: Jil Sander Hits the Runway, Techno-Style

June 18, 2010

Color was the key at Raf Simons’s Jil Sander runway show in Florence on Thursday evening, staged here as courtesy of the Pitti Uomo men’s-wear fair. In recent seasons Pitti has sought to bring new talent (like Thom Browne, who showed his collection in Europe for the first time here) or fresh ideas (Walter Van Beirendonck, the Belgian known for his outlandish creations, staged a show with men wearing high heals and super hero suits) to the trade show, whose roots lay in classical tailoring.

Jil Sander with Raf at the helm is the perfect combination of the two: he is equal parts conceptualist and master tailor. Sharp, slim trousers and shirts were in contrasting — no, jarring combinations of pink and hazard yellow, or jewel tone green and deep purple; essentially every color mother nature never thought of. Except they all came from nature — from flowers, specifically. Simons’s reminder of which came as big format posies printed on silky button front shirts or tattoo-like sleeves under belted trenches. Surprisingly for spring, outerwear was the star of this collection.

The belted or oversized and layered blazers had a techno edge, taped (with neon) seams and Velcro closures and sometimes completely concealed the shorts the models were wearing. Another techno edge came from the thumping speakers, which along with the colors made me think of an old school rave, not uncommon at a Simons show, but another pleasant contrast with the spectacular outdoor setting of the Renaissance-era Tuscan Villa Gamberaia.

via Jil Sander Spring 2011 Collection – Raf Simons for Jil Sander Spring 2011 – Esquire.

Advertisements

From → fashion, Shop, style, trend

Leave a Comment

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: